Overalls



(No Model.)

W. A. DAWSON;

OVERALLS.

. Patented Mamas, 1884. 7

M u m m W W u w m s m n P N UNITED STATES ATENT ()FFICE.

WILLIAM A. DAWSON, .OF STONY POINT, CALIFORNIA.

OVERALLS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 295,619, dated March 25, 1884-.

Application filed December 18, 1883.

(No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Improvement in the Manufacture of Pants and Overalls; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact descrip tion of the same.

My invention relates to the manufactureof pants and overalls, the object being to make themmore durable by re-enforcing those parts upon which the greatest amount of strain and wear comes.-

In thedrawings accompanying this application and forming a part thereof, Figure l representsa rear view of the overalls with my improvements. Fig. 2 is a front view of the same; and Fig. 3 represents them as they would appear upon a person in a reclining position, intended to show the formation of the seat of the overalls.

The first improvement which I have made relates to the corners of the pockets, where the strain caused by putting the hands in and out. of the pockets is most liable to cause a rupture of the seam or the material of which the article is composed. Numerous devices have been devised for strengthening this part of the overalls; but they are either useless metallic fastenings or costly stitched devices. My improvement consists in running a coiled stitch at each corner of the pocket, as shown at A in Figs. 1 and 2. This stitch I commence by running a circular stitch across the main seam at each corner of the pockets,

and then decreasing the circle toward the center, so as to form a coil, as represented. This seam can be easily sewed by turning the goods under the foot of the sewing-machine, and when completed an extremely strong fastening is formed, as the seam crosses and recrosses the main seam and forms a network of stitches without applying any extraneous devices, such as rivets, gussets, or stays.

Instead of lining the pants throughout, I line only the parts which are subjected to the greatest wear. Theseparts are the front of the leg, the seat, and the crotch. For the legs I cut a half-lining for the front of each, and place it there, leaving the rear portions unlined. This half-lining can either be atlatter plan, as it gives a better body and causes the goods to last longer.

This stitching or quilting may be made in various patterns, so as to give the overalls a neat and corded appearance. This half-lining may extend entirely up to the waistband, or, if preferred, to the top of the leg only, and may be stitched across just below the pockets. When extended to the .waistband,.I use the inner goods or lining to form the inside flap, O, of the front opening, thus avoiding the necessity of cutting out special pieces to form this part. This is shown in Fig. 2, the seam connecting the inner and outer portions being shown at 0. In this case I also use the lining for another p urposenamely, to form the back part of the pocket, it being only necessary to run a row of stitching, d, in the form of a pocket, to secure the two thicknesses together, and then make the opening for the pocket in the outer thickness.

Instead of making a single pocket, as heretofore, I make two pockets on each side of the back by first forming a large pocket, which extends half-way across the overalls on each side,andthenrunningalineofstitchesdownthe center to separate it and divide it into two, as 85 shown in Fig. 1. These pockets are very convenient for workmen, on account of the numer ous articles which they are usually compelled to carry, and which very often require to be held in different pockets.

The waistband I make in four separate pieces, 1 2 3 4, the piece 1 extending from the front opening to a point over the hip on one side, and the piece 2 upon the other side. The pieces 3 and 4 extend in like manner from over the hip to the middle of the back on each side. The pieces are not stitched out to the ends to the main body of the cloth; but the ends are left unstitched, each part being provided with a buckle on one end and a tab upon the other, sothat the meeting ends of each can be buckled together. This construction brings one buckle directly in front, one at each side over the hips,

IOO

and another at the back. Under the back buckle I insert a triangular elastic gore, e, which will take up the slack made by tightening the waistband. Each waistband-piece has a widened portion, 10, on its under edge, opposite the corner of each pocket, so that when the waistband is sewed on, this widened portion will extend downward and cross the corner of the pocket. This serves as a stay-piece to strengthen the pocket-corners, and the coiled seams heretofore described may be stitched over-this piece. This waistband enables the wearer to tighten the overalls above his hips at four points, and thus avoid puckering the goods at one point, as heretofore. At the same time it makes a comfortable and neat lit, and the front buckle prevents the strain from coming directly upon the buttons in front.

In making the seat of the pants I use apatch or extra seat-piece, f, which may-be placed either inside or outside. This piece I attach to the pants or overalls by numerous lines of stitches, in the same manner as described for the leg-linings, so as to accomplish more intimate union of the parts than usual, thus giving a thickffirm double seat, which will wear for along time. Between these two thicknesses of material I make the behind pockets.

For the crotch part of the overalls I use an extra re-enforcing piece, g, which can be quilted or remain loose, as found most desirable.

For protecting the crotch-seams I use welt or stay pieces h, which cover the seams, and are stitched to the goods on each side of the seam.

By the means described I- strengthen and reenforce the parts most liable to wear, leaving those parts that receive but little wear without lining or extra material, thus providing overalls that will yield a maximum service at the least possible cost.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. The inside flap, G, of the front opening of pants and overalls, formed from the lining thereof, substantially as described.

2. An auxiliary waistband for pants, made in four pieces, and arranged to be connected together by buckles in front, over the hips on each side, and at the back, substantially as and for the purpose described.

3. In combination with overalls or pants having a main waistband, the auxiliary waistband-pieces 1 2 3 4, having widened portions w, such widened portions forming an integral part of said waistband, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

In witness whereof hand.

I have hereunto set my WILLIAM A. DAWSON.

\Vitnesses:

S. H. NoURsE, A. WV. WHITE. 

